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you won't get any useful feedback because when people look at your deck they won't understand it.

- Usually people max out spells they want to play/have access to the first few turns of the game
- Most people build 60 card decks and they have an idea of mana (lands required + possible mana accelerators) versus casting cost (mana curve) for 60 card decks. For intance if your deck plays 24 land + 4 mana dorks (lets say birds of paradise) you'll have a good chance of playing a casting cost 4 spell turn 4 and you have a reasonable chance of playing a casting cost 5 spell turn 5 or 6 when playing 60 cards. It's hard to map this to bigger decks without getting a caculator and starting to type formulae.

So maybe if you want feedback on a deck like this you should explain the deck, explain your plan of attack. As it is now it looks like you threw all blue and green cards you own together, added 12 land of each without regard of which mana you need when and called it a deck. Am I close?

Close i didn't put in every card i own:D. I am pretty new at this. What I am trying to make a is good blue/green infect deck. Its about down to 1 colors land for every 2 card of the same colors. Some card are in there for know to have some power cards to stop people just taking me out. So the main question is what card would be good to replace with what card. Plus someone is suppose to trade me Blightsteel Colossus once i see them again. My main thing is this a usable deck or am i just gonna get wipe. Also if i get the colossus should i put it in or would be to expensive to plan for(12 mana). Any advice would be appreciated.

you could use shape anew to cheat colossus into the game, maybe with splicer creatures, blade splicer is good.
as for general infect just look around, google the web for infect decks and write down the cards you like. make a deck without taking into account what you own. proxy your build and try it out, if it works start buy8ng and trading the cards you need.

cool thanks for the advice:D
p.s what do me proxy my build and try it out.
also good call on shape anew

Proxying a build is substituting the actual cards with others. The best cards for proxies are the back of checklists because... They're checklists! You write the name of the card it represents, P/T if relevant, and the mana cost (not CMC). Sleeve it up and you're ready!

Lands are also good but I'm an art lover so checklists are much better to me. Once the card is proxied in this manner, I am not sure that it is legal to play in sanctioned events anymore. I may be wrong!

Thanks i wasn't sure what he meant by that. So thanks again about all the help you guys have been.:D

I just looked at the deck. I have a couple of small points as well. Jace's erasure is eh... alright as a one of in a mill deck but, in a deck that doesn't run mill as a focus its almost useless. I mean, yes you will get them discarding for your draw but, the purpose of this card is to take out large chunks of their library. Having four means for every draw you make, they mill four. I combine it with Mind Unbound and Jace, Memory Adept here - http://www.mtgvault.com/ViewDeck.aspx?DeckID=320943 - and here - http://www.mtgvault.com/ViewDeck.aspx?DeckID=323481 - these are not the best decks by any stretch but, they give you a little more context for those kinds of cards.

Secondly, I would run through your creature list and separate it into two piles, infect and not. All of the infect creatures, I would start with four of, or as many as you have, since infect is your plan and your Throatseeker is useless until they are infected, which may be much tougher than you think from deck to deck.

Anyway, After you have your infect creatures, count them up and see how many more you could use (The general deck building rule is 36 spells to 24 lands). Running G/B you could do a couple curiosity with a couple of ponders so you can plan out your next few turns which, as much as ponders and think twice are 'over used', being able to plan out two two turns and bump yourself a card this turn is quite nice. And I suspect you'll have room for it if you trim the deck this way. My rule for these two cards cards is 4 of if I do one of them and 3 of each if i do two. have eight of that mechanism will become clutter in your hand. After that consider spells which could either protect or pump (this is specific to an infect deck, what you add in is always dependent on the build). I wouldn't think about counter spells because, with this kind of deck, you should be doing your best to use all of your land each turn.

After all of that, whatever space you have remaining for spells can be filled with creatures. I would definitely keep scorned villager, two if you have it. I might try keeping the Fiend too because, that would be an awesome drop. As soon as you drop an infect counter on them, It's vanilla (which for me is not just plain but also, cost = p/t) and any added counters make it a symbol for efficiency. Thundering Tanadon is good.

The important thing to remember is that you are running infect. This means that non-infect creatures are supplemental(with a few exceptions, like the fiend). They round out your curve, offer you some protection or an ability you think is necessary.

Any way, you don't really need equipment or the kraken eye either. Well in this build you might xD but even then not as one ofs. again, once you lower the card count, a lot of problems you have may just disappear from the nature of drawing the other cards more frequently.

The last thing is curving the deck. My general rule has always been to count up the number of mana symbols (each symbol counts, so a cost of 2GG has two symbols) and divide that number by two. This website actually does the count for you and posts it on the deck page as "Mana Symbol Occurence" In this case you have 18 blue and 26 green, which would equate to 9 islands(or blue mana producing land) and 13 Forests (deja). A lot of people say mana producing creatures like the myr cut back on your need for land. It's sort of true but, I only hold to that rule if I have to cut land after i curve the deck (if after i get the needed lands and the total count is 60). It seems to me that taking land out of the deck is a big a risk because the creatures, while useful, can very quickly become targets of removal. If you have sacrificed lands in their stead, you are now BEHIND on your curve. But, if you keep your curve and have them. Well, here's how it has played out for me before

T1: forest, birds of paradise
T2: forest, birds, rampant growth
T3: forest, vorapede (or garruk, primal hunter, or one of many other 5 cost threats in green) or forest, birds/rampant growth or some other extra play for
T4: forest, Garruk's Horde

Usually I go for the T3 play because by then, your opponent is likely to have some sort of removal against the birds but, you can seem upset and try to bluff it out like all you keep getting are birds and lands. It works. BUT, Turn 4, 7/7 which buys you an extra creature.... How can I NOT try that if I have it!

Any way, I suppose those comments weren't as little as I intended! Je suis desole! Hopefully you took something out of it besides "I'm not reading that" lol xD

Always feel free to ask questions! And from me, expect explanations like this!

I ask for advice might as well read it :D. Thanks for all advice. It's really helpful. Give me a lot to think about and once i able to trim and modifies i should be a good counter against my friends.